Vintage Bra Liner Pattern
Adding the Vintage Bra Liner pattern to a knit dress.
I am sharing this pattern for FREE as it is only one size, and I haven't had time to grade it, but it will fit a variety of busts and can easily be hacked itself. Just use the coupon code FreeBra at the checkout. To make it work in the dress I had to hack it a bit too, so here is my process.
The pattern is A4/US letter and prints onto one page. Don't forget to set your PDF to 100% and on the print page 'do not scale'. After printing, check the test square measures 5cm x 5cm.
Cut out the pieces and trace them onto cut-and-sew foam. Mark the notches using chalk or an erasable pen. I also like to mark the centre front with a dot, because it is easy to get mixed up.
Set your machine to a zig-zag (I use 4 wide and 3 long). Start by sewing the upper cup to the lower cup; press the foam together so it butts up against itself.
Sew the cups to the bridge in the same way.
It is always fun to make someone else's patterns, so I made Signe Dress by Maria Denmark. While it isn't summer here, I have in my stash an 80m roll of Lurex that I got for free from a warehouse that had been shut up for 30 years. It was perfect to sew up this design, and I love the disco vibe of it. Who cares about the weather?!
This dress is super quick to sew, and is made more practical with the addition of the bra liner. I don't really like wearing a strapless bra, or going bra-less in public, so hacking the pattern and adding an in-built bra for support was perfect. This bra pattern came from a vintage swimwear bra that Sue Stoney from Fadanista picked up at an op-shop - I think it is circa 1970's and is a very cool, useful design.
Lay the cups over the front pattern piece you wish to add them to.
I needed to add fabric to the sides and to the bottom; the bottom strip reduces bulk in the seam and allows the cups to sit in the correct position.
I overlocked the bottom strip to the cups:
And I overlocked the sides to the cups:
To finish the cups, I overlocked the top edge (this makes sewing FOE elastic easier, but you can leave it this way too):
Then sewed FOE to finish the edge using a 3/3 zig zag:
The cups are ready to add to the front pattern. I overlocked the two front pieces together (I shaped the ends of the ties to make them easier to turn through - a trick I often use!).
After turning the front through to the right side, I placed the cups in position on the wrong side and pinned them.
I overlocked the front skirt to the upper front.
As per the instructions, I sewed elastic across the back. I used 2cm wide elastic for additional support. I overlocked it, then sewed it down using a 3/3 zig zag.
Then the side seams! To make the edge neat, I threaded the overlocking back into the seam.
This fabric doesn't fray, so I didn't hem the dress as I liked the length, and the way it fell. Perhaps I am also a bit lazy?!
The cups sit so well, and are flexible for different fullness as they are only secured at the empire seam and side seams. The FOE cups nicely and the bra edge doesn't show through. Win!
Is it just me, but why does it feel weird showing 'underwear' and not bathers?! This would make an excellent bikini top - next project! Do you get the feeling I am hanging out for summer?!
Anyway, I am super happy with how this dress turned out, and I can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can wear it all the time! The built in cups add to the feeling of freedom - I might even take this dress camping! Who says going bush means looking drab? Comfort can be glamorous!