My Maisie Dress - Hacked!

As a pattern maker, I have to think about construction when making patterns, imagining how all the pieces will fit together. As a teacher, I try to imbue my students with a sense of confidence so they can go away and create on their own.

Sure, they might make mistakes, but more than that, they are learning on the way, realising that there are multiple ways to achieve an outcome, and that there is no such thing as the 'right' way (mostly!). With this, comes confidence and self belief. With Maisie, I wanted to encourage you to have a go at making a pattern and thinking about how you would put it together. But, I am aware that this does not come easily for everyone, so I today I am sharing a hack of Maisie that is essentially the same as the pattern, but with the following alterations (hacks):

I shortened the skirt, then added gathered layers, for a boho feel. Each layer measured 30cm deep. Each layer was cut into a front and back pattern piece.

Widths of each layer are as follows:

Layer 1: hip + 6, in my case 108cm

Layer 2: 178cm

Layer 3: 238cm

I decided to add a cuff sleeve, it measures 16cm deep x 42cm wide.

Don't forget this pattern does not have seam allowance, so you must add your preferred amount; mine is 1cm. All measurements shown do not include seam allowance.

To start with, relax! That's right, this is fun! So enjoy the process...

Next, look at your pattern pieces, placing the front and back shoulders together to determine what type of neckline you have (see blog post 13/11/18). As you can see, mine is a boat neck because the curves meet at a point on the shoulder, so I need to sew the neckline first, then the shoulders.

Then choose your neckline finish (see blog post 13/11/18). I decided to go with a raw bias edge as it seemed to suit the fine cheesecloth I used. The following is the order of work I used:

1. Sew bias binding to the front and back neckline. Overlock the seam.

2. Press the seam allowance down, and edge stitch on the bodice.

3. Place the front and back right sides together. Sew the shoulder seam, then overlock. Thread the overlocking tails back into the seam at the shoulder point.

4. Press the shoulder seam towards the back.

5. Sew the sides seams and overlock. Press the seam towards the back.